No one can complicate things like a Frenchman can. Just when you thought it was as easy as ‘bonjour’, here’s our abridged guide on how to say hello in French, reduced to 17 easy-to-remember time/gender/location/religion-specific steps. Think of bonjour as a launchcode: dangerous when it falls into the wrong hands. That’s right, although they taught […]

The sheer size of the Louvre—bigger than an airport and more labyrinthine—can be overwhelming; but even more daunting than that is the sheer academic weight of all those masterpieces staring down at you; centuries and centuries of art in room upon room of scholarship. All those dates to learn, those artistic genres to distinguish, those […]

There’s a theory that suggests you must do something for 10,000 hours before you really master it. By conservative math, Trufflepig co-founder Jack Dancy has been planning trips to France for about 30,000 hours. Ooh la la. This partly explains why he’s so good at it and why he was once again named to Conde Nast […]

When people coined the phrase ‘New World’ in the 15C, I wonder if they expected those impertinent New Worlders would one day repay the favour and start referring to them as the ‘Old’. The Older the better, we say. The Old World wasn’t always the Old World. In the 15C, Europe and Africa was less […]

Barbarossa is the best sort of simple Greek ouzeri/taverna, in the picturesque little port town of Naoussa, on the island of Paros in the Cyclades. How do you know it’s any good? It’s easy: the locals come here. Unfortunately (or not, depending on your point of view) in order to discover this, you have to […]

There are rich pickings in the countryside north of Uzès, where Provence meets the Languedoc, and combines the best of both. Villages, vineyards and views; lavender fields, rivers and mountains; cafés, restaurants and  chambres d’hôtes…  It’s almost an archetypically French mini-region, of which there are so many to explore, and which are always so hard […]

If the measure of a great walk is how much better the Guinness tastes at the end, then Striding Edge in England’s Lake District is possibly the greatest walk in the world. One of the things I love most about the Lake District is that every path, rock, fell and valley has a name to […]

The huge food markets of Tbilisi are not for the squeamish. Vegetarians look away now. I’m interested in how food reaches big cities from the countryside where it’s grown. In Paris, much of what we eat comes through the vast food market of Rungis, just outside the city, where all the buyers for the markets […]

Stand aside, Mister Merlot. Here come Lord Ondenc, Sir Len de l’El, The Earl of Prunelart, and the Count of Mauzac Roux. If you’re bored of wine that tastes more like processed blackberry tart, it’s time to discover the weird old wines of the dustier corners of France. First up: Gaillac. If Willy Wonka was […]

We’ve invented a new sport: extreme art appreciation. In this case, viewing Andy Goldsworthy Land Art in the remote hills of North Provence, by helicopter. A new concept of the term day-trip for the art-enthusiast staying in Provence or on the riviera. Since 1995 Andy Goldsworthy, the British-born ‘land artist’, has been coming to the town […]

Lodge-to-lodge trekking out of the Kasbah du Toubkal gives you access to some of the most beautiful parts of the Atlas, remote rural communities, and sweeping other-worldly landscapes. The well-known Kasbah du Toubkal has been doing up lodges, scattered in the hills and valleys around Imlil, which the lodge uses to put together multi-day treks beginning and […]

Welcome to Villefranche-de-Rouergue, a hard-to-say town with a not-to-miss market and a resolute refusal to enter the 21st century. Nowhere better to see what Autumn has to offer the curious cook than the Thursday morning market here. I’ve visited all the markets in this part of France (the South-West), and this is hands down my […]

Cornwall is a ruggedly beautiful, curious and varied land, and, with the exception of its interminably windy little roads, presents the curious traveller with a perfect fortnight’s exploration. Cornwall is the toe of Britain—the south-western tip beyond the river Tamar and the English county of Devon, jutting out towards its point at Land’s End. The […]

Sometimes the internet takes all the fun out of travelling. Happily, the best stuff is still not, and probably never will be, available online. You can Google-streetview your hotel before arriving and surf down the narrowest backstreets of the smallest village atop the ghastly google car. Read endless blogs to find out what the hottest […]

The first in a series of posts on the best of the many thousands of farmers markets in France, this one’s on the Thursday morning market in the South-West town of Auch. Auch is the capital of the Gers region, a pretty old town on the banks of the river Gers about 90 minutes west […]

Google “Norte Sur” and you get a subtitled Patrick Swayze pressing himself against the heaving bosom of Lesley-Anne Down in “North & South”, a very missable period drama. I hope this post launches Norte Sur, the distinctly unmissable Madrid tapas bar, to pole position where it belongs. This is a bar where the Spanish interior […]