Skip to content

The Wifi in Tanzania is Terrible

I sprained my ankle. Day one, in Tarangire National Park. Not exactly the safari story I had imagined. If I was going to be taken down in the Tanzanian wilderness, I had pictured something more dramatic. A lion, ideally. A particularly ambitious cackle of hyenas perhaps. Maybe a crocodile if things really went badly. Instead, […]

Road Trip Across Namibia

Research is one of the principles which separates Trufflepig from other companies. Our owners are firm believers in the relationship between first hand experience and expertise. As a happy result I’ve been traveling to Africa for work since 2013 – and prior to that for fun since 1999. And since my first trip through the […]

Madagascar – The Gardens of Mars

I arrived in Madagascar not really knowing what to expect. I’d read all the stories about coups and corruption and environmental degradation and then seen stunning photography that showcased the beauty of the country that seemed at odds with the doom and gloom I had been reading about. As with most things, the truth lies […]

Where the (re)wild things are

There are many ways to spend your billions… chasing space travel, buying football clubs or hijacking social media platforms. Or you can begin a rewilding project that you will never see the end of. It will continue long after you’re dead, but maybe future generations will see the good in it and perhaps a small […]

Meals on the Mekong

The tables sometimes were only a foot off the floor, and a woven mat of bamboo was where you sat.  Sometimes there were no tables, just cloth. There was one meal that was on the roof of an unfinished 4 story building, where the rebar was sprouting out of the blocks threatening to impale unwary […]

Where water flows upwards

D.H. Lawrence once wrote a story called “The Man Who Loved Islands”, in which his protagonist, a Mr. Cathcart, seeks to avoid the complexities of human interaction by moving to progressively smaller, more isolated islands. That doesn’t end too well for him, but I must confess to a similar penchant for islands – never the […]

Madagascar – marooned in time

When Madagascar broke free from the continental landmass of Africa 90 million years ago, all of its wildlife was marooned on board, passengers on a boat floating out in the Indian Ocean. As a result about 90% of its wildlife evolved nowhere else on earth. It’s most famous inhabitants – the lemurs – proliferated and […]

Art, con todo, in Mexico City

I don’t really speak fluent ‘art’. I can hold my own, don’t get me wrong. I can walk into a gallery, spend time with a piece, and know if it does something for me. I just draw the line at confidently talking about references and market trajectories. But what I do know is Mexico City. […]

Morocco’s Baptism of Solitude

In these times of uncertainty, of information overload, of constant connectivity and shrinking attention span, many speak of the need for a digital detox, a cleanse.  Some may find relief in putting away the mobile phone, or forest bathing, or yoga.  For me, it’s clear that when you need to empty the cache on your […]

Stones and Bones

We drove to the top of a dusty ridge, golden and red from oxidized mineral deposits in the ground, crumbling walls of sand and stone that looked like cheap stale cake, and in the walls of the cliffs you could see bones. Here, there are no roads, no parking lots, just suggested routes in the […]

DUNE

I think what I like about a desert is the contrast. On the one hand there’s the fundamental hostility of the environment, never more apparent than at midday when the heat of day hits like an anvil. On the other, there is the supreme stillness and spectacular beauty at the day’s margins. Nowhere have I […]

Where the land ends and the sky begins

My latest research trip to Chile’s Atacama Desert was a return journey so I was planning to dig deeper into previously visited places and explore some new spots. Instead I found myself gazing upwards, and my understanding of this unique landscape became informed by its unique relationship to the skies. After a short flight from […]

The Singing Sands

Some of the sand piles reached upwards of 300 metres high. They say the name of this desert means “you can get in, but you can’t get out,” like some Central Asian Hotel California. The Taklamakan, the world’s second largest shifting sands desert, the backdoor of the Tibetan plateau. Just north of the desert is […]