Have you ever looked at a dog’s nose? I mean really studied it closely. It’s cold (most of the time), wet (generally) but the most fascinating thing about it is the texture, a kind of ‘scorched earth’ granularity. Go get your dog, if you have one and stare at that snoot… Now, what does it […]
Some 500 years ago when the Portuguese began settling Pico island in the Azores, nobles, merchants and farmers found rocky, inhospitable terrain that nonetheless was rich in the typical nutrients found wherever one finds volcanoes. Olive and wheat production was initially a failure, so this shifted to growing timber, vines, and fruit trees. If you’re […]
There are many things I look forward to when visiting Belgium, but without fail, the first thing I want to check off my list is sitting down at a brasserie table to eat stoverij. Also known as stoofvlees or carbonades Flamandes, in its most basic form it’s a beef stew made with beer, slow-cooked until […]
In a sea of gondolas and fast motor boats, the Eolo — a fully restored Venetian bragozzo, or flat-bottom fishing boat, painted with the classic black and white decorations — proudly unfurls its trapezoidal rust-red sails to the winds: quite a proclamation, visually and conceptually, even from afar. Irreverent, you might think, yet very much […]
Most folk arrive into Iceland in the early morning after an overnight flight, the dreaded red-eye, and so it’s a good idea on arrival to take it slow and easy. However, many trips to Iceland tend to be quite short, so there is a counter tendency to want to hit the ground running. On balance, […]
At over 3,172 kilometres in total, Ireland’s coastline is the longest per head of population in Europe. That’s a lot of sheltered, stony coves, and blustery, sandy strands for not a lot of people. Growing up near a seaside village where others flocked to on holiday, the most important question was often: “which beach should […]
I think, therefore, I Ham. It’s been bitingly cold and dreary (as far as that is possible) in Sevilla and I need a cure, I need to infuse myself with greenery, sunshine, a delectable meal. Looking gnawingly through the cupboard I see our jamón supply is at critically low levels, so in a moment of […]
It’s hard to encapsulate the essence of a place in a single phrase. There are too many layers and complexities, flavours and voices, volumes and colours. But when I think of my latest trip to Florence, “the devil is in the details” comes to mind. I was caught up in a whirlwind of self-inflicted (and […]
It is no secret that we take food seriously in Spain, so let’s address the Paella question. Maybe you think of paella simply as a rice dish. It is so much more than that, and is on its way to being recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (or at least we hope so). Furthermore, for […]
Anyone who’s spent time with me knows how much I love Belgium. I can talk nonstop about how great it is – and I do. Every. Chance. I. Get. Because it’s a crying shame that such a treasure barely makes a cameo in Europe’s list of must-see destinations. So, on the heels of a recent […]
I’m driving on secondary country lanes, having just taken an exit north of Coimbra, on Portugal’s A1 tollway that joins the capital to coastal Porto, some three hours’ journey. As often happens when driving through this country, take just about any random turn, and modern efficient roads are quickly replaced by rolling hills with endless […]
In the gastronomic pantheon, hundreds of foods take their names from famous figures, spanning the whole alphabet from Eggs Benedict to Caesar Salad, Beef Wellington to Peach Melba. In Italy the most popular dish in such a category has to be the pizza Margherita, which, according to the legend, was created by Raffaele Esposito Brandi […]
In November 2024 Germany officially celebrates 35 years since reunification; it’s not been an easy road and continues to unite and divide. The country has come a long way, but to a degree East & West still exist in people’s minds, is reflected in salaries, political orientation and the like. Time to take a brief […]
Early afternoon , Bastille Day, 1989. I have been standing on the roundabout next to my house for nearly 3 hours. The moment I have been waiting for weeks is finally arriving. Le Tour de France, also known as La Grande Boucle, is passing my hometown, and on its way to Marseille, the finish of […]
Sifnos is the island next-door for me. Serifos is “my” island – I started going there a good 25 years ago, and from the moment I set foot on it, I knew I’d be back and start spending my summers there. I still do. It’s mountainous, wild and unpolished; beaches are virgin, and the occasional […]
There is a cluster of islands, right off the coast of Naples, that look like pebbles scattered in the sea by the hand of a giant. Some are big, some tiny, some just deserted rocks: Capri, Ischia, Procida, Li Galli (also called Le Sirenuse), Vivara, and many more… As myth has it, this is the […]