If there’s a city where history still tastes good, it’s Porto. Stand on the Ribeira quayside at sunset with the old Port lodges glowing on the Gaia side, and it hits you: this city was built on a drink. A sweet, ruby-dark, barrel-aged drink that once sailed the world and still defines Portugal today. But […]

“Just look out for two old codgers standing in arrivals.” This was the closing sentence in an email I received from my father’s cousin, and even though we had never met, I knew instantly that we would get along. Sure enough, after a flight across the Atlantic to Lisbon, and then another north to Oporto, […]