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In Southern Morocco, Searching for the Orchards where Old Testament Fruit Still Grows

The mercury reads 32º C and the narrow tarmac road is already shimmering at 10.00 in the morning as we drive south from Taroudant. We have only the vaguest idea where we’re going, and without a map or any helpful info from the official Moroccan tourism websites this is a pure shot in the dark. […]

What I Learned Travelling Morocco During the Pandemic

For most of us travel this year has meant moving about locally, if at all.  I’m lucky then to live in such a wonderfully diverse country as Morocco with plenty of opportunity to explore. Morocco did surprisingly well in the initial months of home confinement, achievements that sadly, as with many other places around the […]

I, Claudio

Speaking as both an individual of Chilean descent and a lover of all things Morocco, it took surprisingly long for Claudio Bravo to come into my orbit.  Surely due in part to the fact that in neither Morocco nor Chile was Claudio Bravo ever particularly well known.  Even to this day, no museum or art […]

Amazigh Grace

Taking a trip down Memory Road just got a lot more sandy.  And adventuresome.  This epic 6-night road trip, much more romantic when given its French title, La Route du Sud, will take you to some of the most remote and captivating areas of Morocco. I undertook the Route not long ago, thinking that after decades of living and […]

On My Plate: Morocco

The Moroccan culinary alphabet only has about 10 letters. But what it lacks in depth and diversity it makes up for in down-to-earth-made-with-love deliciousness. Where: Someone’s home in the small town of M’Hamid, where the road ends and the Sahara Desert properly begins. What: Chicken tajine. The word tajine refers to the round earthenware dish (with distinctive conical top), the […]

Dirt We Really Dig

If you’re going to build a hotel out of mud and straw, and place it on the far side of nowhere, then it had best be good. If you’re going to officially nickname it a ‘house of dreams’ and charge a thousand Euros a night, then it had best be phenomenal. Dar Ahlam, hidden in […]