The Allure of the Pub
November, not everyone’s favourite month, as it marks the beginning of shorter days and dark skies, the slip from fall into winter, and for many a sense of dread. Here in Canada, winter means snow, hockey, ice and the opportunity to explore the outdoors in a different way. In England, winter is typically rain and wind, and that is when the English pub comes into its own. Sure, a beer garden on a summer’s day has its obvious delights, but a winter visit means a focus on the inside of the pub.
George Orwell famously wrote of his ideal pub, the Moon Under Water, and the ten key elements that made it so. The reader however is only informed that this pub is fictitious, towards the end of the article. Orwell claimed to know of several real pubs that come close to matching the Moon Under Water, but not one that hit all of his ten requirements. Perhaps his suggestion of children’s main purpose being to “fetch drinks for their parents” might not fly today, but most of the others would.
The most memorable pubs have a character that hits you from the off, from the minute you open the door and enter. On a winter’s day in England, this often means exchanging a battle with the elements outdoors for, hopefully, the warmth and joy of an open fire. Is this an essential characteristic of a good pub? Maybe not essential, but it’s a great starting point. Who can resist the coziness of a crackling open fire as the rain hammers the windows?
The bar, though, is the business end of the pub, the transactional and perhaps conversational focus of the place. A well used and patinated bar needs to be welcoming and framed appropriately. Taps of local beers, a chalkboard of specials, and a range of drinks to appeal to all. I like a map or two on the walls, local scenes and history, no need for horse brasses anymore. But why go to the pub in the first place? Partly it has to be for the people. Of course you can arrange to meet friends and family there, but a good pub has a healthy rotation of locals. They may not all be there everyday, but there’s always someone with news to share and stories to tell. Kids and dogs, let them all in, the pub should be a place for all to socialize, a home away from home for everyone. It is, after all, the ‘public house’.
In the not too distant past, food would not have been the biggest draw for going to the pub. Fish and chips, scampi and ploughmans were the go to staples, but how things have changed. An emphasis on local ingredients and a new found, national appreciation for food have elevated the scene immeasurably. Menus are creative, ideally not pretentious, and the very best include seasonal expressions of their location. You should still be able to order a well-made pie and chips, but when, say, asparagus is in season, it should be front and foremost on the menu.
I’m not sure I have my own Moon Under Water, but rather a small and wonderful list of favourites that work in different situations. I’ll share it with you – over a pint. A good English pub can bring to life an otherwise grey and foreboding day.
