Ancient Traditions Bloom in Mexico City

Lately, it feels like things are changing faster than we can keep up- especially when it comes to the planet. So here’s a pause. A story from a quieter corner of the world, right inside one of its loudest cities. A glimpse of something ancient, resilient, and still very much alive.

Welcome to Xochimilco. Maybe you’ve heard of it—colourful boats, floating fiestas, loud music. But underneath that loud surface (and yeah, it can get loud), there’s something deeper. And as always, at Trufflepig, we want to dig to find out.

Long before Mexico City became what it is today, this valley was a lake. A giant, shimmering, interconnected body of water dotted with islands and canals. The Aztecs arrived here as migrants looking for a home. Their gods gave them a sign: an eagle eating a snake on top of a cactus. They saw that sign—right in the middle of the lake—and got to work.

Instead of trying to drain the waters, they adapted. They created chinampas: man-made islands built with stones, branches, and layers of rich soil. These floating gardens became incredibly fertile—some of the most productive farmland in the world. Crops thrived. So did the people.

Then came the Spanish. In their efforts to build roads for carriages and establish their new capital, they began draining the lakes. Over centuries, the sprawling city of Tenochtitlán was paved over. Today, only a fraction of that water system remains—about 2,500 hectares in Xochimilco—and nearly 60% of the chinampas are abandoned. Some have been turned into bars or soccer fields, others left to crumble because families can’t agree on what to do with them. Agriculture here—once a world wonder—is an endangered species.

But here’s the thing: Mexico City is massive. One of the biggest, busiest urban jungles on the planet. It needs every patch of green it can hold onto—not just for the oxygen, but to feed its people. Reviving chinampa farming isn’t just nice nostalgia. It’s survival. It’s resilience. And it’s happening, right now.

There are incredible people—urban farmers, environmentalists, chefs—committed to restoring the chinampas, honouring pre-Hispanic knowledge, while making food that’s fresh, clean, and deeply rooted in tradition, and happy to share a day with you.

Let’s be honest: a lot of people come to Xochimilco for the party. Think birthday blowouts with giant speakers, mariachi bands, and floating buckets of beer. And look, no judgment—it can be fun. But it’s just the surface.

I’ve visited the chinampas in many ways—on tiny canoes and big wooden trajineras—but the one that stays with me the most is the sunrise visit. It’s hard to describe the peace you feel, gliding through the misty canals, birds beginning to sing, wrapped in a grey-blue quiet that slowly turns to fire as the sun climbs up and reflects on the water like a mirror. It’s one of those moments where time folds, and you feel something ancient still breathing around you.

Don’t worry if you’re not a morning person—waking up at 4:30 a.m. while on vacation is not an easy task. Any time of day is worth the trip.

Any visit here comes with food—and not just any food. We’re talking the freshest, most flavorful vegetables and herbs you can taste. The quelites in your quesadilla? Picked this morning. The chamomile in your tea? Grown right here. The broccoli in your tlacoyo? Still warm from the sun.

Many of Mexico City’s top restaurants—Pujol, Contramar, Quintonil—source directly from these chinampas. Some even operate their own. When you eat here, you taste a direct connection between soil, hands, and plate.

But there’s more than just good food. Xochimilco is a haven for birds—especially at sunrise when you can spot everything from snowy egrets to migratory pelicans. And then there’s the axolotl: an adorable, critically endangered amphibian found only in these canals.

This little creature is more than just cute (seriously, too cute!). It has the ability to regenerate limbs—yep, actually grow them back. Scientists are studying it for potential breakthroughs in medicine. But in the wild, its survival depends on clean water, which makes protecting this ecosystem even more urgent. There are small “axolotarios” where you can learn about them—modest places, but full of heart and knowledge.

This isn’t just a boat ride. It’s an immersive experience that blends history, agriculture, ecology, and gastronomy. It’s a way to meet locals who are proud stewards of their land and traditions. And it’s a way to feel hopeful. Because yes, things are tough out there—but this? This is a story of people rolling up their sleeves and doing the work. Bringing life back into a system that once fed an empire—and might just help feed the future.

And the best part? It’s all right inside Mexico City.