The Far Arctic North of Norway

Norway is a place of abundance, where luxury comes not in form of five star hotels (with a few noteworthy exceptions) but in striking natural beauty at every turn.

I’ve been lucky to have visited this magical world of fjords and trolls, glaciers and waterfalls many times, but there was one place that always eluded me: the Lofoten Islands in the Arctic Circle in Northern Norway. Just saying it out loud, it sounds far. Far North. But despite its location, this archipelago is in fact not as hard to reach as one might assume. While in North America, journeying into the Arctic Circle is quite a logistical undertaking, in Europe, you can even get there by train. And that train may even be equipped with wifi, as you cross that magic marker indicating the Polarsirkel.

Travelling in Scandinavia throughout many years, I have learned to appreciate that the weather is highly unpredictable and dynamic whatever the season. Lofoten is no exception; in fact, I think it might be the rule. So, the sooner you can accept the inevitable and embrace the elements (with the help of a proper rain coat and some waterproof footwear), it seems less shocking when the rain hits you sideways, and and all the more exciting if and when the sun does poke out from behind the clouds. As the Norwegians like to say, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing. And from within a decent parka, this one of the most stunning places in the world. Indeed, the often harsh climate only adds to its appeal.

Every season has its equal measure of draws and drawbacks. Something I enjoy about Norway, and Scandinavia as a whole, is how the energy changes depending on the time of year. Summertime means light – almost 24 hours per day at that. They call it the Midnight Sun. In Winter, for a few weeks, the complete opposite is true: darkness prevails day and night. They call them Polar Nights. There is something about the light in the North, the many hues of blue so very intriguing. You could embark on the exact same Nordic adventure and be guaranteed a completely different experience based on the change in energy alone. No matter the season, adverse weather is the perfect excuse to sit out an afternoon in a sweet sweat box (of which there are many!).

With only one road running down the archipelago’s spine, you would be hard pressed to find solitude in the summer months in Lofoten, when visitors come from across Norway. A stark contrast to shoulder season when stretches of road and entire beaches lie blissfully empty. In the Spring you come to see the skrei (stockfish) processing, whereby the fish caught in Winter are hung to dry on giant wooden racks by the sea. This is a big part of the local culture.

Hands down the most unique spots to stay are converted Fisherman’s cabins called rorbu. These cosy, comfortable houses by the sea are usually equipped with bedroom, living room, kitchen and bathroom – allowing you to feel a little closer to your inner Viking. And since most Norwegians are fond of the outdoors, time in nature is obligatory. Think hiking, kayaking, foraging, boating, horseback riding, fishing, skiing, Northern lights watching. There are also a number of quaint small towns, interesting museums focused on Viking history, along with farm visits, glassblowing and pottery studios, and the like.

Any amount of time in Lofoten will make you gain an appreciation for life on the edge of the Atlantic. One can only imagine what existence in the islands would have been like when the Hurtigruten postal service ships were the only link to the outside world. It was a remote place then and continues to be very special now.