Hungry for Stoverij

There are many things I look forward to when visiting Belgium, but without fail, the first thing I want to check off my list is sitting down at a brasserie table to eat stoverij. Also known as stoofvlees or carbonades Flamandes, in its most basic form it’s a beef stew made with beer, slow-cooked until tender, in a rich gravy.

This is by no means haute cuisine. Rather, it represents the very best of traditional Belgian – and particularly Flemish – home cooking. One of the defining features is the use of Belgian beer.

Beer has been brewed in Belgium for centuries, and the country’s beer culture is deeply engrained in its cuisine. Historically, beer was often used in cooking as a substitute for wine or stock, adding rich flavour and depth to dishes. The beer used for stoverij is often a dark, strong beer like a Belgian Dubbel or a Trappist beer, but lighter varieties can also be used depending on the region and, frankly, whatever you have in your fridge. Other aromatics include caramelized onions, thyme, bay leaves and spicy mustard, which adds a bit of acidity to cut through the richness. My favourite variations also include a “sweet” component; sometimes this is a pain d’épices, an old-fashioned honey spice bread, or even a tablespoon or two of Sirop de Liège, a thick, jelly-like spread made with apples and pears. These spicy and sweet flavour combinations have been an integral part of the Belgian palate since the Middle Ages, when the country was located along the spice trading routes.

I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve eaten this dish — I even make it at home. In my own version I use beef cheek, Chimay Trappist beer, a local Belgian-style mustard made by a family in my hometown and a piece of homemade honey cake (an old family recipe that’s equally good sliced and slathered with salted butter).

And as you can see in the accompanying photos, the dish is served with hearty servings of frietjes / frîtes and your favourite beer. This is a meal that always delivers and is as good an introduction Belgium as any I can think of. Do as I do, and set your sights on a brasserie lunch on day 1 and tuck in to one of the best hearty meals in Europe.