Rwanda remains as impactful a place as ever. The contrast between the country’s dark history and the prosperity evident today is nothing short of remarkable, and whatever your opinions on the country’s politics, there’s no denying that Rwanda is fantastic success story. Most of our travellers come just for a few days to visit the […]

After an hour of crawling through a bamboo forest and scrambling up a muddy slope before finally bushwhacking through nettles, I saw him. Just briefly at first, on the opposite slope, even at a distance a full size Silverback Gorilla is massive. After a brief look at me, he loped off into the forest, moving […]

When an angry silverback gorilla tells you its time to leave—you jolly well listen. From Rwanda’s capital—Kigali—a two and a half hour drive into the mountains brought me to the comfortable Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge and the threshold of Volcanoes National Park. The lodge is not what I was there for, however; the following morning I met Francois—the most […]