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In its heyday, Zanzibar was regarded as something of an island paradise. Exotic and removed from the mainstream, it was an unspoilt draw for the rootless wanderers of the world. Benefiting from a bewildering array of influences, epic monuments to colonial vanity rubbed up against medieval medinas and ramshackle hovels. With a small population and […]

Lord of Greystoke

Since we’re friends, I’m going to tell you a secret—but you have to promise you’re not going to tell anybody. Here goes and remember, you promised—Greystoke Mahale, on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, might just be one of the greatest places I have ever been. Now, I know you want to hear about the chimps […]

Pool Party: Zanzibar

The beachside pool is the best of both worlds: nature’s spectacular view combined with man-made safety and climate control. Where: Baraza Resort & Spa, Bwejuu Beach, Zanzibar Why: Something you may not know is that while most of the beaches of Zanzibar are idyllic and perfect for sunbathing, the water itself is not. The tides on the […]

Pool Party: Serengeti

The bush pool: it’s not always a necessity, but when you’ve worked up a sweat trying to count all the wildebeest in the Serengeti, you’ll certainly be glad it’s there. Where: Nomad’s Lamai Serengeti, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Why: After a morning spent watching literally thousands of wildebeest taking a cooling—yet terror filled—swim across the Mara River […]

Fever Trees and Baobabs

Separating fantastic fact from the equally legendary fiction in the life of Frederick Courteney Selous is no easy task. Getting a full and accurate account of his life may never be possible, but let’s be frank, it doesn’t really matter. When you count the likes of Cecil Rhodes and Teddy Roosevelt among your friends, an […]

The Royal Treatment

My experiences in the wilds of Africa have equipped me with a specific set of skills to deal with things like charging elephants and angry lions. These skills tell me when to stand my ground, and when running is the more prudent choice. Having said that, there are certain things I’m just not ready for, […]

A Whale of a Shark

Don’t get me wrong – I love elephants as much as the next guy. Their behaviour is fascinating, their intelligence undeniable, and the little ones are just so darn cute. Observing them from the safety of a Land Rover is common on safari, though interesting as it is, one can’t help but feel removed. Walking […]