Despite all my many travels, the view from the plane as I decend towards landing still feels sacred. There’s a reverence in setting foot on the ground, knowing I’ll soon be sucked into my well laid out plan – one of many possible perspectives and experiences that will shape my understanding of place.

First, Java; a dozen volcanoes peaking up above the clouds sets the tone. Days later, Sulawesi: small, dotted, uninhabited islands turn inhabited. Halos of coral visible from the sky. The ocean meets the mainland and wide winding rivers follow us to the airport.

On Bali, the view is that of the developed South where much of its tourism operates. Home to calm white sand paradises and neighbouring surfing beaches.

This is Bali.

It’s said that Hinduism was first brought to this holy place by Rsi Markandeya who followed a divine light shining up into the sky. Years later – the journey less trechurous although the traffic is much worse –  healing and wellness still calls and, dare I say, radiates from this place.

Purification waterfall blessings, yoga, healers by many names. Also biking and rice fields. Hiking active volcanoes for sunset private picnics. Activity and calm. Artisan shopping and moments that quietly shift you. The journey to peace is on menu, an item for any traveller’s tastes.

Michelin star chefs and world class service in some of the worlds lushest hotels. Sunloungers and jungle and a plethera of worthy activities.

For some this is where the story of Bali ends. However, on the same island one also finds design-forward boutique hotels nestled on black sand beaches.

Ancient sanctuaries framed by dramatic volcanic vistas. Trees wrapped in kain poleng. Daily offerings in so many places you almost trip over them.

Yesterday I followed a sea turtle as it surfaced for a breathe. What a feast for the senses as I bobbed in the water. The bottom half of my view saw healthy coral and thousands of fish, the top half – just above the surface beyond the turtle’s head – white sandy islands, mountains stretched far into the backdrop. Crystal clear water all around me and Java to my right, so close I felt I could swim to it.

4.4 million lives living. Many, as I drive to the airport today, are dressed for their celebration of independence. 81 years of freedom from colonial rule.

We stop at waterfalls and mountanious viewpoints.

This is Bali. And…