Graz and Ljubljana
See, the problem with the parts of Europe I cover is, it’s so terribly easy to give into the notion of oh and what if I add X, it’s right there. While right there can be somewhat of a loose term, on any given day I do map out cross-border journeys linking one place with another and another still. One such adventure had evaded me: linking up Austria with neighbouring Slovenia. So what better way to remedy this than on a research dig that would take me from Graz into the Slovenian Alps? While I had spent plenty of time in the latter, I am almost embarrassed to admit that I had never set foot in the former. When I hatched this plan, little did I know, I was in for the most pleasant of discoveries.
Talk about hiding in plain sight. Graz, while Austria’s second largest city, tends to fly under the radar. Overshadowed by its famous sisters Vienna and Salzburg, it quietly basks near the Slovenian border, beckoning with its understated yet infectious energy. Nothing beats sitting in the beer garden on top of the city’s hill Schlossberg with the river Muhr at your feet and taking in sweeping views across its Unesco-listed rooftops and beyond; all the while appreciating the Styria region’s freshest cuisine. Life is good here.
So good in fact, it reminded me of another low-profile place not too far away, where the locals peacefully go about their days: Ljubljana. One of the prettiest, unpretentious and most approachable European cities (and a capital one at that). So I got too thinking: what is it about these two cities that makes them so special?
Both are home to a not so subtle love for everything off the land, an appreciation for the simple things that the surrounding countryside has to offer and that at once provide the base for the most flavourful dishes, no matter the season. From myriad of uses for the abundant pumpkin seed oil, native grape varietals, freshly foraged mushrooms, and the dreamiest polenta made from Bohinj corn. The list goes on.
Both cities share a similar climate and benefit from a stunning riverside setting which in an of itself creates a serene backdrop. Parks and green spaces abound. Walking and sitting by the water’s edge nurtures the soul. And a quick look beyond reveals ample potential: hiking, biking, skiing… Keeping active – whether it’s walking the cobblestone alleyways or embarking on a more ambitious outing outside the city limits – spending time in nature is paramount and within easy reach.
And then there’s a human factor. Kids run around playing in the streets, neighbours meet in the market square, people take the time to stop for a chat over coffee and visiting the farmers market is a weekly recurring event. Looking around makes one appreciate how we’re all linked, how small interactions have a big impact.
The sum of everything is this certain joy that comes from life itself. It’s what both Graz and Ljubljana have in common, it’s palpable in the streets. It’s what makes me want to return to both cities and soak up their quiet energy time and again.
